Third walk day - Ennerdale Bridge to Borrowdale Valley (Stonethwaite)

 

You know that 14.5 mile day we presaged?  Well, it was listed in one book as 16.5 miles and we added about 1 mile to that through several inspired route choices!  But...we survived!  In fact, we survived in style!  Total walk time was 10 hrs.  Considering that we gained 1700 ft and lost 1000 ft, not too bad.  Of course, getting four people to move quickly is almost impossible!  Besides, this walk is not about speed - we intend to "smell the wildflowers"!  The weather was quite good through most of the day, providing glorious skies and spectacular views of the oncoming fells and then later down into the Ennerdale, Buttermere and Borrowdale valleys.

It was a long, pleasant uphill walk through a managed pine forest and punctuated with views across Ennerdale Water and up to the  Red Pike ridge.  As we walked, our first rain alarm caused us to madly throw on rain gear, only to have it stop.  Along the track we met Nick, a VERY fit Cumbrian man who advised to take a less traveled path, leading to a river crossing which was a ford and should have been easy, BUT was submerged.  After multiple false starts with Toni panicked and Judy exhibiting the patient exasperation of a long suffering wife, Joe and Ben found a way across and we emerged undampened.  Above us was the Black Sail youth hostel, providing a tantalizing close rest with indoor tables and hot tea.  When we reached the hostel, we discovered a foot bridge a bit upstream - too late!

Much refreshed, we followed a almost indiscernible sheep trail and then headed up a very steep staircase climb beside Loft Beck.  While steep, the climb (1000 ft vertical) was manageable.  Despite many warnings about losing our way, we had no trouble staying on the track.  The views from Honnister Pass were nothing short of spectacular, encompassing Ennerdale Water, Borrowdale valley, Buttermere valley, and the high fells in all directions.  For several miles we encountered one magnificent view after another!

Once we crossed Honnister pass, we could see multiple slate mines and, far below, the mine museum.  A steep, rough descent over slate slag brought us to the museum and then a long walk on roads brought us into Seatoller and, finally, to our Knotts View B&B in Stonethwaite.

About 5 pm, as we were laboring down a rocky bridle way from the Honnister slate mine, the skies opened up.  When hail started falling, even Joe was convinced that the weather demanded the respect of rain gear!  We stumbled into Stonethwaite at about 6:30 pm.  A long, tiring and mostly very satisfying day!

We had a truly outstanding dinner at the small inn across from our B&B (the fish was wonderful!).  Of course, the tricks and jokes department decided to have one more go at us.  One of the showers refused to function, resulting in a fire drill of sorts while four wet, tired fell walkers queued up to get clean.