While in the green, we searched for buildings or streets that looked like those in the BBC television series "All Creatures Great and Small" - we understand that the series used Reeth for its village scenes. No luck, but the village seemed just the right type for that country vet. We did notice an Evangelical Congregational Church, of particular interest to Ben and Judy.
Our walk continued down the Swale Dale towards Richmond. Total distance was a bit more than 11 miles. The valley began to open up, with gentler side slopes and broader floodplains.
We expected a gentle walk in close proximity to the Swale River and we did spend several miles walking along the banks. However, when we reached the ruins of Marrick Priory (nun's residence and farm) the trail climbed rapidly up 375 rock steps said to be built by the nuns (far and away the best crafted trail section on our entire walk - what does that tell you about the role of women in our world?). The trail led into the hamlet of Marrick and along the upper part of the valley wall for several miles.
We then dropped down to river level and into Marske, a small, picturesque hamlet with, alas, no toilets or pubs. Beyond Marske, the trail passed through MANY walls via almost impossibly narrow stiles.
These stiles could only be negotiated by turning sideways and sucking in both gut and behind. A good thing we have been exercising so much!
The fields were full of birds, including grouse and pheasants. All day long we heard the echoing reports of shotgun fire from the upper moors and presumed the cause to be grouse hunting.
Our previous host, John, explained the grouse hunting process to us. Large numbers of men called beaters walk slowly through a field, pushing the grouse ahead of them. Additional men called flankers press in on the grouse from the sides. Once confined, the grouse are flushed into the air, whereupon the hunters open fire. Seems a lot like shooting fish in a barrel and not very sporting. While in Reeth, we just missed seeing a band of tartan clad men climb into their Range Rovers (bristling with weapons) and head up into the fells. Apparently, this is a big business in the dales.
Ben spent idle moments on this walk day ruminating about sheep. They appear not very bright, nearly defenseless, and overly willing to follow the herd into any predicament. How did the species prosper with so little to ensure their survival? Considering the many biblical comparisons of people to sheep, what does that say about our species and our place in God's world?
O, we like sheep. Well, the sheep below seem to be doing just fine - enjoying a brief rest along the way!
We again climbed high above the river, providing more lovely views. As we approached Richmond, the Keep of the castle and surrounding town came into view, with level farmland beyond. This marks the eastern end of the Dales.
Our walk into Richmond was from above, providing a gradual introduction to the town. As the details came into view and we passed more houses and people, our reentry into the realities of urban life was gentle. Walking gives us the opportunity to appreciate the nuances of such change.
Richmond is a very old town built around a Norman era castle, with a large walled castle area and a large marketplace outside the castle walls. In a near perfect defensive site, the castle and town occupy a sharp bend in the Swale River and are several hundred feet above the river. Streets are narrow and steep. Our B&B, the Bridgedown House, was located on the river in a park setting and across from the old railway station (now a brilliantly executed theatre and restaurant mews). We, thus, were forced to tromp down and down to reach our goal.
Our entry into Richmond was hardly triumphal, but we did feel more than a little accomplishment. We had walked 120+ miles, traversed two national parks, climbed above 2000 feet five times, squelched our wandering way through countless bogs, and experienced many hamlets, villages and towns. Just as importantly, we had met and enjoyed the company of many wonderful people - walkers, townspeople, our hosts, pub keepers, and farmers.
This evening we met up with Ben and Judy's Yorkshire friends, Barry and Jenny Greenwood, for a pint sitting on the town marketplace and then dinner at an excellent Indian restaurant. It was wonderful to see them again and to swap yarns about hiking the C2C path (Barry has walked the whole path twice.) At dinner we also chatted with Australian walker friends. After dinner, we came across Barry and Nick, for a brief reunion. Nick walked the entire day and was very optimistic about doing the rest of the path. Hooray! (We really do end up rooting for each other and caring about fellow walkers!)
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