The morning opened with mixed clouds and sun, despite a night with multiple downpours. Ben and Judy shared a bed directly under a roof skylight and heard every raindrop of each downpour. We had no rain today, however - an auspicious start to our long trek.
Our first glorious English Breakfast filled us to the brim and prepared us for the the miles ahead. We left our B&B, Stonehouse Farm, at 9:40 and walked to the coast at St. Bees beach. Today's route ran north along St Bees head, which rises about 400 ft above the water, nearly to Whitehaven and then turned inland to walk across the pasture lands towards Cleator, the location of our next B&B. The wildflowers were in profusion, along with gorse, bracken, and heather. Seabirds were nesting all along the cliffs, and sheep and cattle were grazing in the adjacent fields. We were literally wedged between land and sea, making our way between vertical cliffs and fences -- interesting that the fences protect the sheep but not people! We had views of the Isle of Man and the Scottish hills further north. Alas, we had limited views of our ultimate quarry - the Lake District mountains, due to clouds. The sky was spectacular, but the wind was fierce (Joe says the strongest he has ever experience. The fact that all hats were maintained on heads is nothing short of miraculous! (Ben's hat never budged, leading Joe to speculate about the size of Ben's head.)
After trekking across farmlands and fields full of sheep, we stumbled at 1 pm on to the Dog and Partridge Inn in Sandwith, tired and ready for a pint and a sup. Much fortified and slightly tipsy (not really) we continued through the open country. Walking through several lovely valleys, we came upon an old railroad grade which provided views of the surrounding fields and villages. It really is true that walking across lands provides a perspective and sense of place that cannot be obtained when driving. By end of walk, we hope to really KNOW this narrow section of England!
By the time we reached our day's destination - the Ennerdale Country House, we were ready for a rest and a pint. This is a fine old manor house with a checkered history, a expansive formal garden, gracious public rooms, and a charming formality. We just completed dinner and are remembering a day which provided a pleasant and encourage walk. Ben's Achilles is doing fine, Toni's knee survived and Joe and Judy hope the complaining stops soon!
Tomorrow is another short day getting us to Ennerdale Bridge and the beginning of the Lake District mountains.
Great to read that you have completed your first day! Scenery and cool looking inn look to be well worth any potential aches or pains! Are Joe and Toni standing in what might be called a stile?
ReplyDeleteHope you enjoy more great days. Loved reading about your trek.