Fifth Walk Day - Grasmere to Patterdale

Well, the c2c path and the National Trust are partially redeemed in our estimation!  Our 8 mile walk up to 2000 ft and back down was pleasant, filled with glorious views, and most rewarding - despite a very steep section over several sets of rock stairs rising over 1000 ft.  The condition of the trail was MUCH better than our previous walk day and the lack of any rain did much to improve our spirits.

Our walk out of Grasmere was brief and we were soon climbing up another beautiful, bucolic valley with a tumbling, noisy beck at its center.  Waterfall after waterfall lent its music to the sigh of the wind and the calling of an occasional lamb to its mother.  As usual, we were surrounded by dry stone walls and pastures full of sheep.  Our first choice was to choose a route around the "Great Tongue", which looks very much like a cows tongue as it might stick out of her mouth.  The tongue appears to be a harder rock formation that resisted erosion, producing two branches of Tongue gill - a surprisingly obvious and large formation.  The climb was gradual for a few miles, until we came to the col at the head of the valley where a very steep, but fairly well constructed set of stone staircases took us up rapidly.  We met a group of Brits "of an age" like ourselves with a knowledgeable leader.  We tagged along, getting some interesting tidbits along the way.

A more gradual climb delivered us to Grisedale Hause (pass) at 2000 ft, where the big group took an upward trail.  We followed, only learning later that they were headed up to St. Sunday Crag (2700 ft).  We bailed, taking a surprisingly enjoyable downhill "romp" through a grassy slope (see picture above) to Grisedale Tarn.  We could see the group in the distance laboring up a steep trail, and we were grateful for our choice!  We now faced another fateful choice: head up to Helvellen Peak (3100 ft) or head down the valley route.  Not much choice, despite the clear weather and beautiful views.  After following Grisedale Beck along a pleasant path (no bogs!), we stopped at Ruthwaite shelter, which (on Sundays) provides "high tea", way up in the fells.  We were days early for tea, so we ate our bag lunches with a gorgeous view of the valley and Patterdale below.  We met a delightful party of three Brits and played "leap frog" down the trail into Patterdale and joined them on the road walk to Glenridding.

Grisedale Lodge, our B&B, was a thoroughly remodeled classic stone house run by Cristine and John. We were greeted with tea and whip cream cake.  What a wonderful end to a strenuous day!  Even Joe, who almost never partakes in tea, enjoyed a "cuppa".  We had dinner at a pub at the top of an (interminable) hill overlooking Ulswater and enjoyed a excellent Salmon en cruet.  While Joe and Ben shared a sticky toffee pudding (a Cumbrian delight!), Judy and Toni headed off to a choral concert in the village - providing unique local color.

Alas, Ben discovered en route that he had picked up a cold.....Everyone else is hale.  Ah, to bed perhaps to dream (of waterfalls and fells).