Fourth walk day - Stonethwaite to Grasmere

The day arrived with light rain, not something that made us anxious to jump out of bed and barrel down the trail.  However, by the time we finished breakfast the rain had stopped and we were on our way.  We had a good rest and a great breakfast in a 200+ year old farmhouse owned by the Jacksons - Knotts View, also known to their grandchildren as "the Hobbit House".

We thought, based on signs and the guides, that today's walk would be 6.5 miles ... Well, it turned out to be 10 miles on some of the roughest trails imaginable!  (Are you sensing a pattern?). Trails in the Lake District are like golf courses in Scotland - the more "natural " the better.  The national trust does not believe in construction of any kind in the park, so many of the paths are eroded, rock strewn hazards that run directly through bogs and straight up slopes.  None-the-less, true fell walkers blaze through leaving us in the mire!

As hoped, we have met many fellow walkers, some going all the way and others doing shorter routes and day trips.  Australians, Germans, Canadians, and many Brits.  Sharing stories over a pint or dinner is becoming a regular occurrence.  On the trail, tips about the trail ahead are freely shared.  A smile and "good morning" go a long way when you are slogging up a steep trail!

Today's route left Stonethwaite and climbed quickly towards the 2000 ft pass at Greenup Edge.  Water was everywhere, especially under our feet.  Many waterfalls on all sides, from small tinkling becks to roaring torrents.  It rained intermittently, interspersed with sun - actually not a bad day for northern England.  A long, steep rock staircase led to a huge marsh area which gave new meaning to term: being "bogged down".  The downhill slog seemed interminable, with many water hazards along the way.  But, we were rewarded with beautiful views of the Grasmere valley and the surrounding fells and brilliant sunlight highlighting sheep filled meadows.  The final walk through Easedale to Grasmere was lovely, past meandering streams and quaint cottages - just as we might imagine Wordsworth's home.

Ben's Achilles is behaving extremely well - surprisingly so - with only slight aches and no tenderness.  Toni's knee gives her occasional twinges, but well timed acetaminophen seems to keep her going and fairly pain free.  All of us have aching muscles and stiff joints some of the time - when you are old, you have such frailties!

Some statistics:

total miles = 42

total walking time = 28 hrs (including stops)

elevation gain and loss = +400 -200 +950 -800 +1800 -1800 +1700 -1700 (total +4850 -4500)

sprains, strains, contusions = none (so far!)

For reasons hard to explain, vertical ascents here are MUCH more demanding and tiring than they are at home.  We have little trouble climbing to the top of 3000+ ft Black Mtn in the coast range, but an 1800 ft climb and descent here is punishing.

Oh, and so far we have not gotten lost - off track or detoured yes - and pouring over guides and maps is a common occurrence!

Special statistic:

Seven pubs in five days - not bad for the "pint to pint" walk!